The “green” list continues…
EcoPCO WP-X is a newer product made from three botanical insecticides that can help fill in the gaps (or cracks and crevices – a little Pest Control Manager lingo) of a “green” program. EcoPCO WP-X can be used indoors and outdoors. Chinch bugs, spiders, fire ants, cockroaches, carpenter ants, carpenter bees, wasps, aphids, Japanese beetles, lace bugs, white flies, thrips, fleas, pantry pests, fruit flies, fungus gnats and many, many others pests are controlled with this product.
A good place to start with this product is to establish a barrier around your house. Spray a six to ten foot band of a solution of this product over the mulch and soil around the house. Use at least one to five gallons of the spray solution per 800 to 1600 square feet. The more water you use while spraying, the better penetration into the mulch or soil you would get, giving you a better kill. Down in the mulch is usually where the critters live. Good penetration is important for any product you want to use as a barrier treatment (always read and follow product label).
Spray the sides of your house two to three feet high as well. This band will keep the cockroaches and other critters from crawling up your house and slipping into your home through a crack or crevice. Around doors, windows, porches, screens, eaves, patios, garages, around porch lights, pipes entering the house, and other points of entry are also good places to spray EcoPCO WP-X.
If some insects or spiders got through your barrier, you can treat inside with this product as well. Identify the pest and follow the label on the EcoPCO WP-X tub.
Armyworms, chinch bugs, sod webworms, chiggers, fire ants, mole crickets and many other insects that you might find in your yard are controlled with EcoPCO WP-X. For controlling chinch bugs in St. Augustine grass, EcoPCO WP-X provides a good “green” alternative. Again, you would want to use a lot of water with the product to get the product down into the thatch where the critters live.
Aphids, Japanese beetles, thrips, lace bugs, mealy bugs, white flies and many of your ornamental pests can be controlled with EcoPCO WP-X. No more free lunch!
Always read, understand, and follow product label.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Organics - Seaumic, Serenade
Horticulture Hotline 05/24/10
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
Last week I got a little side tracked writing about the amazing job that Tony Bakker and his team of people at The Charleston Battery have been able to accomplish through “going green.” This week I’m going to concentrate more on some of the newer products available and some of the old favorites for the new readers.
Seaumic has proven itself worthy in the Lowcountry in very short time. Seaumic is a granular organic product that is 45% humates and 10% cold water kelp (seaweed). Rose growers, sports turf field managers, landscapers, vegetable gardeners, home lawns and landscapes, and annual flower beds have all improved with the use of Seaumic.
Seaumic provides humate to the soil. Humate is compressed organic matter over thousands of years that is mined from the Earth. Humates in the soil increase fertilizer efficiency, make nutrients that are in the soil more available to the plant, reduce leaching of nutrients, increase the CEC of the soil, feed microbes in the soil, and encourage root growth. This is a short list of the benefits that this biostimulant can provide for your landscape.
The seaweed in Seaumic, Ascophyllum nodosum, provides a host of plant growth hormones and micronutrients to the plant. Cytokinins, Purines, Indoles, Abscisic Acid, and the plant growth hormones (auxins and gibberellins) just to name a few will get your plants and turf super healthy. Have you heard of human growth hormones?
One of our landscape customers worked at Clemson University for Dr. T.L. Senn while he was developing this product. When the customer found out we were selling the product, he ordered over 100 bags. Enough said!
Serenade is an organic fungicide that can be used on plants, flowers, trees, fruits and vegetables. Serenade is a bacteria strain that controls harmful plant diseases. It controls or suppresses Black Spot, Powdery Mildew, Rust, Gray Mold, Late Blight, Scab, Leaf Spot, Fire Blight and many other diseases.
Black spot on roses, Powdery Mildew on roses and Crepe Myrtles, and Leaf Spot on Indian Hawthorne are always a challenge. Give Serenade a try. As an OMRI rated product for organic gardening, it would be a good product to rotate in with others for a different mode of action to avoid resistance.
Some much to write, so little time. Next week I'll write about more organics.
Horticulture Hotline 05/24/10
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
Last week I got a little side tracked writing about the amazing job that Tony Bakker and his team of people at The Charleston Battery have been able to accomplish through “going green.” This week I’m going to concentrate more on some of the newer products available and some of the old favorites for the new readers.
Seaumic has proven itself worthy in the Lowcountry in very short time. Seaumic is a granular organic product that is 45% humates and 10% cold water kelp (seaweed). Rose growers, sports turf field managers, landscapers, vegetable gardeners, home lawns and landscapes, and annual flower beds have all improved with the use of Seaumic.
Seaumic provides humate to the soil. Humate is compressed organic matter over thousands of years that is mined from the Earth. Humates in the soil increase fertilizer efficiency, make nutrients that are in the soil more available to the plant, reduce leaching of nutrients, increase the CEC of the soil, feed microbes in the soil, and encourage root growth. This is a short list of the benefits that this biostimulant can provide for your landscape.
The seaweed in Seaumic, Ascophyllum nodosum, provides a host of plant growth hormones and micronutrients to the plant. Cytokinins, Purines, Indoles, Abscisic Acid, and the plant growth hormones (auxins and gibberellins) just to name a few will get your plants and turf super healthy. Have you heard of human growth hormones?
One of our landscape customers worked at Clemson University for Dr. T.L. Senn while he was developing this product. When the customer found out we were selling the product, he ordered over 100 bags. Enough said!
Serenade is an organic fungicide that can be used on plants, flowers, trees, fruits and vegetables. Serenade is a bacteria strain that controls harmful plant diseases. It controls or suppresses Black Spot, Powdery Mildew, Rust, Gray Mold, Late Blight, Scab, Leaf Spot, Fire Blight and many other diseases.
Black spot on roses, Powdery Mildew on roses and Crepe Myrtles, and Leaf Spot on Indian Hawthorne are always a challenge. Give Serenade a try. As an OMRI rated product for organic gardening, it would be a good product to rotate in with others for a different mode of action to avoid resistance.
Some much to write, so little time. Next week I'll write about more organics.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Charleston Battery, Organics
Horticulture Hotline 05/17/2010
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
While tending our booth at the Charleston Battery’s “Go Green Expo” May 9, 2010, it reminded me how far we have come in the last few years with “green” products. Some of these products may have been available in the past; however, I have been paying closer attention to them since Possum’s is the official supplier to The Charleston Battery who tries to be as “green” as possible.
The Charleston Battery has geo-thermal wells, solar panels, fish for aquatic weed control, mostly an organic playing field, recycle, electric cars, control gnats and mosquitoes with organic products, and they do not sell bottled water at the games, but give away filtered water. . . The Charleston Battery is serious about “green”.
Getting a soil test and having a knowledgeable person interpret the results for you, is the first step towards a great landscape. Incorporating organics into your fertilizer program will go a long way to “fixing” the soil instead of putting a band aid on the problems.
After several years of using organics at The Battery, Kevin Duris (Head Grounds Superintendent) and Shannon Summersett (Assistant Grounds Superintendent) have been able to maintain a high quality playing surface and reduce the costs by a half. The first year the budget was higher; however, every year following that the budget has come down significantly.
For drainage and footing, The Battery is a sand based pitch (English soccer lingo for field). They actually have to remove organic matter as it builds up in the soil because the organic matter slows down the drainage. Core aeration and topdressing with sand (the field is sand based) is a cultural way they remove thatch and organic matter. They also use BGK 7500, an organic product that contain thatch eating bacteria, to remove unwanted organic thatch buildup.
I do not recommend that homeowners top dress with sand because that can cause more problems than you are trying to fix. Aerate with a coring aerator and leave the plugs on top of the ground and apply BGK 7500 will help with the thatch. Cotton Burr Compost and Seaumic will also help reduce thatch.
Next week, I’ll write about other organic options to “fix” situations in the landscape. Also, remember to remove products (organic or not) from sidewalks and other hard surfaces, so rainfall will not wash the products into our storm drain system.
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
While tending our booth at the Charleston Battery’s “Go Green Expo” May 9, 2010, it reminded me how far we have come in the last few years with “green” products. Some of these products may have been available in the past; however, I have been paying closer attention to them since Possum’s is the official supplier to The Charleston Battery who tries to be as “green” as possible.
The Charleston Battery has geo-thermal wells, solar panels, fish for aquatic weed control, mostly an organic playing field, recycle, electric cars, control gnats and mosquitoes with organic products, and they do not sell bottled water at the games, but give away filtered water. . . The Charleston Battery is serious about “green”.
Getting a soil test and having a knowledgeable person interpret the results for you, is the first step towards a great landscape. Incorporating organics into your fertilizer program will go a long way to “fixing” the soil instead of putting a band aid on the problems.
After several years of using organics at The Battery, Kevin Duris (Head Grounds Superintendent) and Shannon Summersett (Assistant Grounds Superintendent) have been able to maintain a high quality playing surface and reduce the costs by a half. The first year the budget was higher; however, every year following that the budget has come down significantly.
For drainage and footing, The Battery is a sand based pitch (English soccer lingo for field). They actually have to remove organic matter as it builds up in the soil because the organic matter slows down the drainage. Core aeration and topdressing with sand (the field is sand based) is a cultural way they remove thatch and organic matter. They also use BGK 7500, an organic product that contain thatch eating bacteria, to remove unwanted organic thatch buildup.
I do not recommend that homeowners top dress with sand because that can cause more problems than you are trying to fix. Aerate with a coring aerator and leave the plugs on top of the ground and apply BGK 7500 will help with the thatch. Cotton Burr Compost and Seaumic will also help reduce thatch.
Next week, I’ll write about other organic options to “fix” situations in the landscape. Also, remember to remove products (organic or not) from sidewalks and other hard surfaces, so rainfall will not wash the products into our storm drain system.
Monday, May 3, 2010
Leaf gall
Here is a question that the guys in the store and I have been hearing repeatedly this spring.
I have a camellia whose leaves are 2-3 times the normal size and are real thick. Can you help me with this?
This is a very common disease that affects camellias. This disease affects Camellia sasanqua (the small leaf camellia that blooms in the fall) more than Camellia japonica (the large leaf camellia that blooms in the winter). The cool nights, overhead irrigation and rains we had in the early spring made this disease flourish. This disease is caused by the fungus Exobasidium camelliae. There is another Exobasidium fungus that affects azaleas in a very similar way.
Leaf gall is the common name for this fungus. The leaves become very large and fleshy. The new growth is much thicker than normal and then the leaves break apart and release spores. When the leaf breaks apart, you can see the lower part of the leaf turns white. The disease spreads by wind and splashing water. A good layer of mulch will help with the splashing water.
The best control for leaf gall is to pick the infected leaves off as soon as you see them in the spring. If you can pull them off before the spores develop, you can prevent the disease from spreading. Once you pull them off, place them in a plastic bag (the one your newspaper comes in is handy or a dog poop bag) and throw them away in the garbage or burn them.
Usually this disease does not require chemical treatment. The manual pulling off of leaves and limiting overhead irrigation in the spring, when the nights are cool, will keep it in check. If you have a severe problem year after year, you could apply Mancozeb at bud break. This should be your last resort.
For this year, pull off as many infected leaves as you can. Soon your plants should go back to producing its normal size leaves. The leaves that were affected by leaf gall will soon wither, turn brown and fall off the shrub.
While eating lunch the other day, I also had a question about a Christmas cactus and the fertilizer for it. A 10-30-20 water soluble fertilizer would be a good start. The nitrogen (the first number) should be 20% or less of the phosphorus (the second number) and potassium (the third number) added together. As I told you then, less is better or the cacti will get diseased.
I have a camellia whose leaves are 2-3 times the normal size and are real thick. Can you help me with this?
This is a very common disease that affects camellias. This disease affects Camellia sasanqua (the small leaf camellia that blooms in the fall) more than Camellia japonica (the large leaf camellia that blooms in the winter). The cool nights, overhead irrigation and rains we had in the early spring made this disease flourish. This disease is caused by the fungus Exobasidium camelliae. There is another Exobasidium fungus that affects azaleas in a very similar way.
Leaf gall is the common name for this fungus. The leaves become very large and fleshy. The new growth is much thicker than normal and then the leaves break apart and release spores. When the leaf breaks apart, you can see the lower part of the leaf turns white. The disease spreads by wind and splashing water. A good layer of mulch will help with the splashing water.
The best control for leaf gall is to pick the infected leaves off as soon as you see them in the spring. If you can pull them off before the spores develop, you can prevent the disease from spreading. Once you pull them off, place them in a plastic bag (the one your newspaper comes in is handy or a dog poop bag) and throw them away in the garbage or burn them.
Usually this disease does not require chemical treatment. The manual pulling off of leaves and limiting overhead irrigation in the spring, when the nights are cool, will keep it in check. If you have a severe problem year after year, you could apply Mancozeb at bud break. This should be your last resort.
For this year, pull off as many infected leaves as you can. Soon your plants should go back to producing its normal size leaves. The leaves that were affected by leaf gall will soon wither, turn brown and fall off the shrub.
While eating lunch the other day, I also had a question about a Christmas cactus and the fertilizer for it. A 10-30-20 water soluble fertilizer would be a good start. The nitrogen (the first number) should be 20% or less of the phosphorus (the second number) and potassium (the third number) added together. As I told you then, less is better or the cacti will get diseased.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Horticulture Hotline
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
Here is a quick check list of current events in the yard.
Lawn Mower – sharp (new) blade, new oil, new air filter, new spark plug?
Prune azaleas, camellias and other spring flowering plants after they bloom?
Trees need pruning?
Fertilize daffodils and spray them with Messenger for bigger bulbs next year. Leave the leaves (foliage) to collect sunlight to refurbish bulb for next year.
Huge fleshy leaves on new growth of camellias and azaleas? Leaf Gall? Remove infected leaves and destroy.
Is Powdery mildew attacking roses, crepe myrtles, dogwoods? Neem PY (organic), Honor Guard
Large Patch Fungus – get an early start – prevention is cheaper than curative. Cleary’s 3336, Dual Action Fungicide, Prophesy and PCNB are a few chemical controls. Crab Shells, Serenade, and Natures Blend are organic controls that “fix” the problem.
Adult mole crickets are mating – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control
Fire ants are starting to forage – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control, Over n Out, Baits
Grubs are near the surface – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control, Grub X
Scale insects are in their crawler stage – this is the best time to kill them. Malathion and Oil premix, Acephate, Dominion …
For trees and shrubs with perennial insect problems consider Dominion Tree and Shrub or Merit.
Get a “jump” on fleas this year. Lebanon Insect Control, Tirade outside. Precor 2000, Inverted Carpet Spray or Ultracide all have an adulticide as well as a growth regulator and are labeled for indoor use.
Winter Kill?
Plant a vegetable garden?
Plant a flower garden?
If you applied preemergent in February, it is time for your second application (depending on the rate and product you used the first time). Remember the ornamental beds!
The leaves have fallen – new mulch?
Fertilized your trees and shrubs? 17-00-09, 03-01-05 (organic)
Fertilized Palm Trees with 07-00-09 (the most awesome Palm Fertilizer)?
Tested your well water?
Pruned holly fern, cast iron plant, and monkey grass (liriope)?
Moles?
Soil tested? Custom Program?
Always read, understand, and follow product label – it is a Federal Law.
By Bill Lamson-Scribner
Here is a quick check list of current events in the yard.
Lawn Mower – sharp (new) blade, new oil, new air filter, new spark plug?
Prune azaleas, camellias and other spring flowering plants after they bloom?
Trees need pruning?
Fertilize daffodils and spray them with Messenger for bigger bulbs next year. Leave the leaves (foliage) to collect sunlight to refurbish bulb for next year.
Huge fleshy leaves on new growth of camellias and azaleas? Leaf Gall? Remove infected leaves and destroy.
Is Powdery mildew attacking roses, crepe myrtles, dogwoods? Neem PY (organic), Honor Guard
Large Patch Fungus – get an early start – prevention is cheaper than curative. Cleary’s 3336, Dual Action Fungicide, Prophesy and PCNB are a few chemical controls. Crab Shells, Serenade, and Natures Blend are organic controls that “fix” the problem.
Adult mole crickets are mating – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control
Fire ants are starting to forage – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control, Over n Out, Baits
Grubs are near the surface – manage them. Lebanon Insect Control, Grub X
Scale insects are in their crawler stage – this is the best time to kill them. Malathion and Oil premix, Acephate, Dominion …
For trees and shrubs with perennial insect problems consider Dominion Tree and Shrub or Merit.
Get a “jump” on fleas this year. Lebanon Insect Control, Tirade outside. Precor 2000, Inverted Carpet Spray or Ultracide all have an adulticide as well as a growth regulator and are labeled for indoor use.
Winter Kill?
Plant a vegetable garden?
Plant a flower garden?
If you applied preemergent in February, it is time for your second application (depending on the rate and product you used the first time). Remember the ornamental beds!
The leaves have fallen – new mulch?
Fertilized your trees and shrubs? 17-00-09, 03-01-05 (organic)
Fertilized Palm Trees with 07-00-09 (the most awesome Palm Fertilizer)?
Tested your well water?
Pruned holly fern, cast iron plant, and monkey grass (liriope)?
Moles?
Soil tested? Custom Program?
Always read, understand, and follow product label – it is a Federal Law.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Aeration Additives
As the night time temperatures warm up and the grass starts to actively grow, aerating should be considered for the health of your whole landscape. While you have the holes open in your yard, there are many products that you can add to that root zone area that will benefit your turf, trees, and shrubs.
Aerating does several good things for your lawn, shrubs, and trees. Try to use an aerator that pulls up a plug with a hollow tine instead of a spike type aerator that is just a solid tine going into the ground. By removing cores of soil from your lawn and laying them on top of the ground, all kinds of good things happen. This cultural practice is one of the best for your landscape as a whole.
Aerating reduces compaction, reduces thatch, increases oxygen movement to the roots, brings beneficial microorganisms to the surface, cuts runners, and allows better penetration of water, fertilizers, or control products into the soil.
Right after aerating, while the holes are open, is a good time to add Seaumic, BGK 7500, products containing mycorrhiza, Crab Shell, Mule Mix and/or Cotton Burr Compost.
· Seaumic is a bio-stimulant humic acid product that will help your roots grow, soften up the soil, feed beneficial micro-organisms in the soil, make nutrients that are in the soil more available to the plants, and keep fertilizer from leaching.
· Seaumic also contains 10% cold water seaweed. The seaweed also acts as a bio-stimulant and is a source of many minor elements.
· BGK 7500 is a granular organic product that has thatch eating bacteria mix in with a 03-03-03 fertilizer. BGK 7500 is also fortified with 6% humic acid.
· 04-04-04 Bolster, Endoroots, M-Roots and other products that contain mycorrhiza. By applying these products while the roots are exposed, the mycorrhiza can attach to the roots quickly.
· Crab Shell by Neptune’s Harvest will increase the chitin eating bacteria in the soil. These bacteria will help control nematodes and fungus. I would definitely use this product in areas that I have problems with large / brown patch.
· Mule Mix can last about 20 years in the soil and help manage moisture. This is a clay product that has been super heated until it pops! This makes this product sterile as well as turns it into a little capillary. This capillary holds water and then releases it as the plant needs it. This product is used on baseball infields to manage the moisture levels in clay; otherwise the clay would be rock hard or moist and slimy. Mule Mix will also keep fertilizer and water from leaching in sandy soils.
· Cotton Burr Compost will add water holding capabilities to the soil by adding organic matter to the soil. Cotton Burr Compost will soften up clay as well as giving sandy soil nutrient holding capacity. Cotton Burr Compost is very high in nutrition and will also help increase populations of beneficial organisms in the soil.
All the above products will help conserve moisture as well.
Aerating does several good things for your lawn, shrubs, and trees. Try to use an aerator that pulls up a plug with a hollow tine instead of a spike type aerator that is just a solid tine going into the ground. By removing cores of soil from your lawn and laying them on top of the ground, all kinds of good things happen. This cultural practice is one of the best for your landscape as a whole.
Aerating reduces compaction, reduces thatch, increases oxygen movement to the roots, brings beneficial microorganisms to the surface, cuts runners, and allows better penetration of water, fertilizers, or control products into the soil.
Right after aerating, while the holes are open, is a good time to add Seaumic, BGK 7500, products containing mycorrhiza, Crab Shell, Mule Mix and/or Cotton Burr Compost.
· Seaumic is a bio-stimulant humic acid product that will help your roots grow, soften up the soil, feed beneficial micro-organisms in the soil, make nutrients that are in the soil more available to the plants, and keep fertilizer from leaching.
· Seaumic also contains 10% cold water seaweed. The seaweed also acts as a bio-stimulant and is a source of many minor elements.
· BGK 7500 is a granular organic product that has thatch eating bacteria mix in with a 03-03-03 fertilizer. BGK 7500 is also fortified with 6% humic acid.
· 04-04-04 Bolster, Endoroots, M-Roots and other products that contain mycorrhiza. By applying these products while the roots are exposed, the mycorrhiza can attach to the roots quickly.
· Crab Shell by Neptune’s Harvest will increase the chitin eating bacteria in the soil. These bacteria will help control nematodes and fungus. I would definitely use this product in areas that I have problems with large / brown patch.
· Mule Mix can last about 20 years in the soil and help manage moisture. This is a clay product that has been super heated until it pops! This makes this product sterile as well as turns it into a little capillary. This capillary holds water and then releases it as the plant needs it. This product is used on baseball infields to manage the moisture levels in clay; otherwise the clay would be rock hard or moist and slimy. Mule Mix will also keep fertilizer and water from leaching in sandy soils.
· Cotton Burr Compost will add water holding capabilities to the soil by adding organic matter to the soil. Cotton Burr Compost will soften up clay as well as giving sandy soil nutrient holding capacity. Cotton Burr Compost is very high in nutrition and will also help increase populations of beneficial organisms in the soil.
All the above products will help conserve moisture as well.
Early Season Mowing - Remove Brown Grass
Alright, I guess I will give the soil amendment standards at least a week off. I have heard from the critic (anyone that is married knows who I’m talking about), and the recent articles were too technical, boring, like reading a boring college organic chemistry text book…
I thought my readers would love to read some of the technical stuff, occasionally, especially when the topic was mulch, compost, alleviating compaction, amending the soil and other situations we deal with in the yard regularly.
For future articles and for my growth as a writer, do you, the reader, like a little technical information every now and then? This was my first attempt in 19 years of writing to be so technical and I thought it was important because I deal with these issues on a daily basis.
If you could log on to www.possumsupply.com, email a store, and let me know if you are ok with some technical information on occasion, I would appreciate it. A response will not be used against my critic. I already lost that battle (anyone that is married knows who I’m talking about) a long time ago!
Now a question:
Hope all is well with you. In my case, I mow with a mulching mower so I don’t collect clippings during the year. For the first mowing of the season, do you typically recommend mowing shorter than normal (maybe one setting) and collecting the clippings or does that matter? I’ve already mowed once to even up the grass, but it didn’t really need mowing.
Congratulations, you must be using a preemerge product for winter weeds or you would be mowing weeds! A lot of people will mow lower and collect the clippings to get rid of the "brown" in the grass. Not needed for good grass, just appearance. Your mulching mower should be fine.
If you have a whole lot of brown grass that does not look like it is going to decompose in a reasonable amount of time, borrowing a bagging mower may be a good option for the first cut. Get back to your mulching mower as soon as possible, so your grass benefits from the returned organic matter and nutrients.
With core (pull a plugs verses punch a hole) aeration time rapidly approaching, there are several products you can add to your lawn while there are holes in it that will greatly improve your lawn. I will cover those next week.
I thought my readers would love to read some of the technical stuff, occasionally, especially when the topic was mulch, compost, alleviating compaction, amending the soil and other situations we deal with in the yard regularly.
For future articles and for my growth as a writer, do you, the reader, like a little technical information every now and then? This was my first attempt in 19 years of writing to be so technical and I thought it was important because I deal with these issues on a daily basis.
If you could log on to www.possumsupply.com, email a store, and let me know if you are ok with some technical information on occasion, I would appreciate it. A response will not be used against my critic. I already lost that battle (anyone that is married knows who I’m talking about) a long time ago!
Now a question:
Hope all is well with you. In my case, I mow with a mulching mower so I don’t collect clippings during the year. For the first mowing of the season, do you typically recommend mowing shorter than normal (maybe one setting) and collecting the clippings or does that matter? I’ve already mowed once to even up the grass, but it didn’t really need mowing.
Congratulations, you must be using a preemerge product for winter weeds or you would be mowing weeds! A lot of people will mow lower and collect the clippings to get rid of the "brown" in the grass. Not needed for good grass, just appearance. Your mulching mower should be fine.
If you have a whole lot of brown grass that does not look like it is going to decompose in a reasonable amount of time, borrowing a bagging mower may be a good option for the first cut. Get back to your mulching mower as soon as possible, so your grass benefits from the returned organic matter and nutrients.
With core (pull a plugs verses punch a hole) aeration time rapidly approaching, there are several products you can add to your lawn while there are holes in it that will greatly improve your lawn. I will cover those next week.
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