Soil Modification Practices (March 2010)

Horticulture Hotline 03/15/10

By Bill Lamson-Scribner

Over the weekend, I was reading an article about soil management that had several interesting points that could help everyone that has a yard. The article was the ANSI standards for soil modification that are under public review through March 22, 2010. These are just a few situations that I see all the time. If you would like to read the complete article, you could go to www.tcia.org/standards/CurrentProjects.htm. I will put a few comments in []’s.

14 Soil modification practices
14.1 Soil modification objectives shall include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following: Protect existing roots;
enhance root development; and maintain tree health.
14.2 Soil modification practices shall include one or more of the following:
evaluating site soil conditions; managing soil organic matter content; and, prevention and mitigation of soil compaction.
14.3.2 Site and soil evaluation items should include, but are not limited to, the following:
site topography – surface and subsurface drainage; soil drainage (infiltration and percolation); soil texture; soil profile; soil structure (bulk density); soil depth; presence of impermeable layers and height of water table; and, organic matter levels.
14.3.4 Soil testing should be done prior to designing, planting and or developing management plans for landscapes. [Amen, we have preaching this for years]
14.4.4 When organic matter is incorporated into the soil, compost should be used. [Using compost will prevent nutrient tie up and weed seed or disease introduction. Cotton burr compost is great for this because it lasts for years in the soil instead of weeks.]

Since these standards are so important to the health of our trees and landscapes in general, I will continue with soil modification next week.

The cold weather has given us an extension on getting out our preemergent products for small seeded annual weeds. Paul (Super Garden Hero) and I had some real positive comments about the use preemergent products on the “Garden Clinic” (WTMA noon to one Saturday) this past week. Preemerge now, boat or golf later.

If you want to remove the balls from your Sweetgum trees, now is the time. Hurry up or you will have another year of spiny balls in your yard.



Horticulture Hotline 03/22/10
By Bill Lamson-Scribner

This Horticulture Hotline is a continuation of last week’s article about soil modification around trees. The article is the ANSI standards for soil modification that are under public review through March 22, 2010. These are just a few situations that I see all the time. If you would like to read the complete article, you could go to www.tcia.org/standards/CurrentProjects.htm. I will put a few comments in []’s.

14.5 Prevention and mitigation of compaction practices
14.5.1 Objectives for prevention and mitigation of soil compaction should include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following:  maintain or improve soil aeration; maintain or increase water penetration (infiltration rate) and percolation; maintain or enhance water-holding capacity and drainage; maintain or improve ease of root penetration; and, maintain or reduce surface runoff and soil erosion. [simple core aeration along with an application of Seaumic at 15#/M and an application cotton burr compost to a one inch depth covered with a bark mulch at a one inch depth will provide you all of the above. You could also vertical mulch (auger holes and fill with compost or other soil amendments) sometimes called drill and fill. Radial mulching is a little more involved and for soils in worse shape. Radial mulching involves trenching out from the tree like a bicycle spokes and filling the trench with composted organic matter and soil amendments. radial mulching is best left for an arborist because of the amount of root damage. You can also loosen the soil with high pressure air.]

Since these standards are so important to the health of our trees and landscapes in general, I will continue with soil modification next week.

Remember that when applying products to your yard, whether organic or synthetic, be sure to remove product that lands on sidewalks, roads, driveways, or any other hard surface that will prevent the product from penetrating the lawn and end up running off into the storm water system with the next rain. This cleaning will also help reduce staining of your hard surfaces.

The cold weather has given us an extension on getting out our preemergent products for small seeded annual weeds. Preemerge now, vacation or hangout in the air conditioner air later.

Plantasia (a green market for plant lovers) and the walking tours are rapidly approaching.

If you want to remove the balls from your Sweetgum trees, now is the time. Hurry up or you will have another year of spiny balls in your yard.



Horticulture Hotline 03/29/10
By Bill Lamson-Scribner

This Horticulture Hotline is a continuation of last week’s article about soil modification around trees. The article is the ANSI standards for soil modification. These are just a few situations that I see all the time. If you would like to read the complete article, you could go to www.tcia.org/standards/CurrentProjects.htm. I will put a few comments in []’s.

14.5 Prevention and mitigation of compaction practices.
14.5.3 Measures should be taken to prevent or minimize soil compaction while working within the root zones of trees and woody plants or where landscapes are planned. [Do not let your contractor park his truck or pile bricks or other materials under the shade of your nice oak tree!]
14.5.4 Activities on wet soils should be avoided or preventative actions shall be taken to avoid compaction. [I see this most on athletic fields when games are played on wet fields. On very wet soils the macro pores (big pores that hold air) will fill up with small particles and prevent air from getting to the roots. Around trees you will see plywood or other materials put down to lower compaction if a bucket truck is in the area to prune. In many instances, you add water to something that you are trying to compact.]
14.5.5 Soils with surface compaction in areas where landscapes are planned should be amended with organic matter following mechanical loosening to the depth of soil compaction.
14.5.6 Mulching should be considered an effective long term means to treat compacted soil within the root zones of trees and woody plants. [Good organics feed microorganisms and worms that move around in the soil keeping the soil loose.]
14.5.7 Surface application of organic mulch.
14.5.7.1 The objectives of mulching should be established. Objectives should include, but not be limited to, one or more of the following:

•Inhibit weed growth;
•Conserving soil moisture;
•Moderating soil temperature extremes;
•Preventing and alleviating soil compaction;
•Preventing soil erosion and surface crusting;
•Improving the soil structure and fertility;
•Encouraging beneficial soil microorganisms;
•Inhibiting certain root pathogens; and,
•Increasing root growth and plant vigor.

Since these standards are so important to the health of our trees and landscapes in general, I will continue with soil modification next week.

Plantasia (a green market for plant lovers) and the walking tours are rapidly approaching. The Rose Society’s Oyster Roast is April 11th at Bowen’s Island from 1:30 – 4:30.