The cool nights and moist spring has been great for
extending the bloom period on azaleas and dogwoods; however, turf fungus seems
to be thriving in these conditions. The rains last fall (2015) really spread
the fungus to new levels. These new areas of infection are likely to show up
again this spring. Be ready. Fungicides work like the flu shot – they are best
to be used preventatively before you have the disease. Unlike the flu shot , if
you don’t get it out in time, there are curative rates you can use.
Large Patch or Brown Patch fungus loves these weather
conditions. Temperatures at night in the high 50’s to low 60’s and moisture
make conditions real favorable for Large Patch or Brown Patch fungus. We have
had plenty of these conditions making the fungus environment perfect for the
spread of this disease.
Since it is very difficult to control night time
temperatures, you can put your efforts into doing other cultural things to help
minimize the disease. Large Patch or Brown Patch fungus likes wet, heavy
thatch, improper nutrition, and/or compacted soils. Culturally you need to manage your irrigation
system, raise any low areas, and correct drainage problems. Reducing thatch, maintaining proper fertility
levels via soil testing, and aerating to alleviate compaction, will also help
control Large Patch or Brown Patch fungus.
Certain organic products have shown to increase
microorganisms in the soil that compete with plant pathogenic fungus in the
soil. At Possum’s we get good feedback from Nature’s Blend, SeaHume, Crab
Shell, Corn Gluten, Cotton Burr Compost, and some of the Roots products. These
products are not fungicides; however, people that use them report back to us
that they notice less fungus in the yards that they apply these products. Coincidence
or real science? I’m thinking real science because I have noticed it in my yard
too. Try some of these products in areas that you know you get the disease, and
see how it works for you.
Since the grass is coming out of dormancy so slow, a
systemic control product like Cleary’s 3336 or Fame might be a good idea to get
you through the next month or so as long as conditions are favorable for the
disease. Be careful because some of the fungicides in the SI or DMI class
(Bayleton) of chemistry slow down the growth of the grass making the grass more
susceptible to fungus. Actively growing grass will recover faster from disease.
Being a soil borne disease, you know that it will reoccur in
the same areas year after year. If the
base of a leaf blade with Large Patch is moved from one part of the yard to
another (lawn mower – not real likely if you have sharp blades), this can begin
a new infection area; however, these are not spores flying through the
air. As a soil borne fungus, if you map
the areas that you have the disease, you can concentrate your control efforts
(dollars) into a smaller area, putting less control products into the
environment. If your yard is 5,000 sq ft
usually you might have a few infected areas which might total approx. 500
ft. Instead of buying control products
to treat 5,000 sq ft, you can concentrate your efforts into the 500 ft (i.e.
10% of your total yard). If Large Patch
was an air borne fungus with spores, you would have had to treat the entire
yard because air borne fungus spreads a lot quicker than soil borne fungus.
Always read, understand and follow product label. The
product label is a Federal Law.
