Monday, November 3, 2025

 

                                           Pure White Sasanqua Camellia

                                            Rye on Fertilizer Program
                                           Rye on Dog Urine Fertilizer Program
                                            Rye and Cassia



Horticulture Hotline 11/03/25

By Bill Lamson-Scribner

 

I have eight tea olives in my yard that are all over fifteen feet tall. When fall comes and they are blooming and smelling so sweet, I know the hot days of summer are coming to an end. The tea olives are spread in strategic places throughout my yard, so no matter how the wind blows, I will get to smell them. When they bloom, usually the threat of hurricane season comes to an end (fingers crossed), football season is in full swing, the weather is perfect, visits to our local gardens, parks, and plantations are awesome - oysters, anyone?

 

Great weather, cassia blooming, camellias blooming, holly berries, pyracantha berries, nandina berries and fall leaf color – one of the reasons you live in the Lowcountry? The different varieties of Japanese Maples provide many different hues of color in the fall. And of course, there is poison ivy – be sure to garnish your Thanksgiving table with something other than this colorful vine.

 

One big question to answer this time of year is do I want to grow ryegrass in my lawn, paint my lawn green, or let it go dormant? The football fields, soccer fields, baseball fields, and golf courses look so nice this time of year. Green grass all winter would be nice. Many of the people that live in Charleston now are used to green grass in the winter. If you are a little apprehensive, instead of doing the front yard where the whole world can see, try the back yard or a side yard. If you have active children or dogs (the other children), ryegrass can lessen the damage from traffic. Ryegrass does very good under the canopy of oak trees – just ride by The College of Charleston’s Cistern during the winter.

 

While driving through neighborhoods, I see a lot of houses for sale. Ryegrass or green paint could separate your house from the multitude of other houses that are on the market.

For the very low cost of seed and fertilizer or paint, if you could sell your house one month earlier saving you a monthly payment, wouldn’t it be worth it? What about a year earlier?

 

Ryegrass has a bad reputation because people misapply it. I often get asked, “doesn’t rye kill my centipede (or St. Augustine)?” If you manage the rye correctly, you should have no problems. The ryegrass question is like buying a dog. If you base your decision on the few untrained pit-bull stories and never purchased or adopted a dog of any type because of these stories, it would be too bad.

 

The 3 biggest mistakes I see with rye grass that give it a bad reputation are:

  1. Put out at too high of a rate, so it chokes permanent grass.
  2. Use cheap rye with lots of weed seeds and poor color.
  3. No fertilizer programs. Light green grass and no additional fertilizer so dog urine spots (dark green grass) become your fertilizer program.
  4. It is not managed in the spring chemically or culturally, so it competes with permanent grass while it is coming out of dormancy.

 

If you decide you want to put out ryegrass, now is the time to check your trusty application chart. Have you put out a pre-emergent herbicide this fall on your lawn? If so, when and at what rate? If you have recently applied pre-emergent products, you may want to try the paint or wait until next year. You could put out something to deactivate the pre-emergent so you could rye, but that will just add to your cost. If you decide to rye, putting a pre-emergent product in your beds will help to keep rye from popping up in your beds, saving you time and frustration.

 

If you are painting or not using rye, you can attack some of the nasty winter weeds that will compete with your turf grass next spring without having to worry about the rye grass. Painting will also capture heat that will help your grass “green up” sooner in the spring. Who wants to be “mowing weeds” late winter / early spring? Florida Betony and other winter weeds are visible now. Remember it is easier to kill them now when they are young and actively growing than to wait until they are flowering.

 

Three Possum’s Stores hot topic reports – vicious late season mosquitoes, winterizing fertilizers (use SeaHume, Possum’s Minors, 00-00-25, Cotton Burr Compost - stay away from winter fertilizers for fescue and blue grass), large patch (I was trying to avoid saying large patch this week), moles (of course), pots / winter color, fire ants, Neem oil for shrubs, and mole crickets. Bring in your soil test now, so you beat the spring rush!

 

Always read, understand, and follow product label or hire a professional. The product label is Federal Law.

 

Bill Lamson-Scribner can be reached during the week at Possum’s Landscape and Pest Control Supply (follow us on Facebook). Possum’s has three locations 481 Long Point Rd in Mt. Pleasant (971-9601), 3325 Business Circle in North Charleston (760-2600), or 606 Dupont Rd, in Charleston (766-1511). Bring your questions to a Possum’s location, or visit us at possumsupply.com. You can also call in your questions to “The Garden Clinic”, Saturdays from 10:00 AM to 11:00 AM, or listen to the replay of Saturday’s show, Sundays from 11:00 to noon on 1250 WTMA (The Big Talker). The Horticulture Hotline is available 24 / 7 at possumsupply.com. 

Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Large Patch Fungus

 

                                            Halloween and Large Patch

                                                      Large Large Patch


                                                      Large Patch
                                                      Controls Large Patch

            

Horticulture Hotline 10/21/25

By Bill Lamson-Scribner

 

Wow, we are getting weather that is making it really hard to deal with some of our perennial worst situations this time of year. The rain we had about ten days ago was a perfect slow rainfall that penetrated our landscapes instead of running off into stormwater drains and out into the harbor. Unfortunately, Large Patch loves this moisture too.

 

Rain and nighttime temperatures in the 60’s are perfect weather for Large Patch (Brown Patch) disease in turf. Unless you cover your grass with a tarp, like a baseball diamond, it is hard to turn off the rain. Hopefully, you are managing your irrigation system. It seems like when the skeletons and other Halloween decorations appear in the lawn, so does the Large Patch. With a disease, you want to treat when the conditions are favorable, before you see the damage.

 

All fungus diseases must have three factors line up for there to be an active problem. This is referred to as the disease triangle. There must be a susceptible host (your grass), a favorable environment (in this case cool nights, water, grass is going into dormancy….), and the disease must be present (in the soil in this case). When all these conditions are met, the disease strikes your grass.

 

The quick fix would be to apply Strobe G or T-Methyl throughout the yard. Strobe G and T-Methyl are systemic fungicides that get into the plant (grass) and protect the grass plant from the disease. Getting a flu shot would be a human equivalent. Depending on the weather, rotating chemistries is always a good idea to prevent resistance to the disease. Applying the product before you get the disease when you notice conditions are right, will save you money and time applying the product. You wouldn’t get a flu shot after you had the flu. Unlike the flu shot, Strobe G and T-Methyl do have curative rates.

 

Rats, mice and roaches like to move inside for the winter and the rain just seems to accelerate that migration. The Lowcountry is such a hospitable place, I guess we welcome rats, mice and roaches too! I was looking over some figures the other day preparing for our 2026 season at Possum’s and I was amazed at the amount of products we sell to control these pest. Granted, many of them are sold to professionals; however, they are still used in this area.

 

Do irrigate your yard in the winter because the dry, cold low humidity air can desiccate your lawn, trees and shrubs, similar to the way your lips get chapped. The grass loses water through the runners even though it is dormant and the trees and shrubs lose water through the bark and leaves (if it is an evergreen).

 

Mole crickets and fire ants have been particularly active. With Halloween just around the corner, be sure to manage your fire ants. You would not want that little Princess or Vampire to get bit!

 

Always read, understand and follow product label. The product label is a Federal Law.

Monday, September 29, 2025

Fall - Yes!

                                           Best Sandbags Ever!


 

                                                     Large Patch / Brown Patch

 



Horticulture Hotline 09/29/25

By Bill Lamson-Scribner

 

While walking and driving around, it seems that brown patch/ large patch/ Zoysia patch (I will use these names interchangeable) has invaded the Lowcountry. As the cooler weather comes and the grass growth rate slows down, large patch / brown patch / zoysia patch fungus began to show up in our lawns. Does it seem to you that right when we got the army worms and sod web worms under control, here comes the large patch? Proving once again, the Lowcountry is the hardest place in the world to grow grass and why it is so important to have a program for your lawn. Do you see areas of your grass that are brown when other parts are green?

 

Large patch disease is always present in the soil. The disease just manifests itself when the environmental conditions are right and your grass cannot outgrow the damage. Without any sustained cold temperatures, this disease is slowly spreading across lawns as the temperatures that favor its growth keep coming into play. A prolonged fall is great for outdoor activities like visiting local plantations, fishing, boating, golfing, shopping and working in the yard; however, the temperatures are also perfect for these diseases to develop. The grass is not fully actively growing (not mowing as much) and it is not fully dormant (brown), so these are perfect conditions for the disease to attack.

 

Since this disease is a big problem in the Lowcountry, knowing that it is a soil borne disease can help you with control strategies.  Being a soil borne disease, you know that it will reoccur in the same areas year after year.  There are not any spores flying through the air like many of your leaf spot fungi, so the disease is easier to control.

 

As a soil borne fungus, if you map the areas that you have the disease, you can concentrate your control efforts (dollars) into a smaller area, putting less control products into the environment.  If your yard is 5,000 sq ft usually you might have a few infected areas which might total approx. 500 ft.  Instead of using control products to treat 5,000 sq ft, you can concentrate your efforts into the 500 ft (i.e. 10% of your total yard).  If Large Patch was an air borne fungus with spores, you would want to treat the entire yard because air borne fungi spreads easier and quicker than soil borne fungi.

 

As your grass is going into dormancy and the temperatures begin to cool at night, large patch is ready to attack your grass. Large patch will go inactive when the temperatures get very cold; however, it will become active again when the temperatures favor the disease. If you have discolored areas in your yard that appear to be a disease, check with someone that knows. Even if it is during a cold phase and the disease does not appear to be active, you can still put out a systemic fungicide for protection. Our soils do not get so cold that the plant will not absorb the fungicide with its roots. Remember treating a fungus with a systemic fungicide is like getting a flu shot – you do it preventatively before you have the disease. If it is too late to use it preventively, when you want the disease to stop spreading, you can use the fungicide curatively.

 

 

A good granular one-two punch control strategy is T-Methyl and Strobe Pro G (all systemic fungicides that get into the plant).  Use these products in areas where you have had Large Patch previously at the preventive rates and intervals recommended on the labels. Be sure to alternate T-Methyl with Strobe Pro G, so you are switching chemistry classes and modes of action. Good control in the fall can help avoid flare ups in the spring.

 

Large patch usually likes wet, heavy thatch, improper nutrition, and/or compacted soils.  Culturally you need to manage your irrigation system, raise any low areas, and correct drainage problems.  Reducing thatch (at Possum’s we have a great organic granular product for controlling thatch), maintaining proper fertility levels, and aerating (when the grass is actively growing – not now) to alleviate compaction, will also help control large patch. A healthy turf (following soil test derived feeding schedule) and a soil with bio-diversity (use of cotton burr compost, SeaHume, crab shell, Nature’s Blend, and other organics) has shown to help manage this disease.

 

It looks like we dodged this storm. Instead of waiting in line to get sandbags that get sand everywhere (in your car, on your driveway), consider using Cotton Burr Compost or Topsoil bags. After the threat of flooding, you have a great product to use in your yard! We are still getting sporadic reports of fall armyworms, mosquitoes (EEE death reported in Beaufort County), mole crickets and fire ants.

 

Time to take soil test and beat the spring rush at the soil testing lab. Every soil test is unique to your yard. Lime takes a while to fully react in the soil, so if you need lime, it is good to get an early start. Time to get ready for 2026.

 

Always read, understand and follow product label. The product label is a Federal Law.

 

Bill Lamson-Scribner can be reached during the week at Possum’s Landscape and Pest Control Supply (follow us on Facebook). Possum’s has three locations 481 Long Point Rd in Mt. Pleasant (971-9601), 3325 Business Circle in North Charleston (760-2600), or 606 Dupont Rd, in Charleston (766-1511). Bring your questions to a Possum’s location, or visit us at possumsupply.com. You can also call in your questions to “The Garden Clinic”, Saturdays from 10:00 AM to 11:00 AM, or listen to the replay of Saturday’s show, Sundays from 11:00 to noon on 1250 WTMA (The Big Talker). The Horticulture Hotline is available 24 / 7 at possumsupply.com. 

 

 

Tuesday, September 16, 2025

Sweet Tea Olive!

 

                                                     One of My Tea Olives


 

 


Horticulture Hotline 09/16/25

By Bill Lamson-Scribner

 

Yesterday morning, I smelt the sweet fragrance of a group of my tea olives. I love that smell! The smell is great and it usually indicates that cooler weather is here and I survived another hot Lowcountry summer!

 

Did you put out a preemergent product to your lawn and beds for winter annual weed control in August? If yes, depending on the product and the rate you used, remember to reapply. If no, now is the time to get it spread onto your lawn and beds. Preemergent products control weeds as they germinate making your life and your plants’ (including grass) life easier. It is never too late to put out a preemergent product because weed seeds germinate all year here in the Lowcountry. Once you get it out, new weed seeds will stop germinating. Although many winter weeds have already germinated, they will hide in your green grass until it goes dormant. Once your grass goes brown, the green winter annual weeds will be very visible. Avoid the competition, use a preemergent product now!

 

Winterizing trees and shrubs with either a few products individually or as a multi prone approach will help insure the health of your landscape investment. Beware of products that are designed to “winterize” cool season grasses (fescue, blue grass, rye) that are marketed to the consumer here where we have warm season grasses (centipede, St. Augustine, Zoysia, Bermuda). It can be very confusing!

 

A witch’s brew is a good liquid fertilizer for trees and shrubs this time of year. Mainly reserved for the hard-core gardener (boat engine in the shop, football team is not living up to expectations, last time you played golf you threw your clubs in the water) and the professional.  You can always add SuperThrive, SeaHume, Fish / Seaweed blend, Vermaplex, Yucca Wetting Agent … “The Brew” will promote good root growth and fast spring green up without stimulating soft growth that is susceptible to cold damage. A professional’s machine will add some hydraulic aeration and other benefits. The hydraulic aeration is a huge benefit. Just writing about this project makes me want to get some out on my yard!

 

If you prefer a granular, SeaHume G, 00-00-25, Cotton Burr Compost, Nature’s Blend, 04-00-10 (trees only), Possum’s Minors are a few products that will benefit your lawn, trees and shrubs this winter. If you haven’t fed your trees and shrubs in a while 17-00-09 might be appropriate. Like people, trees, grass, and shrubs, like to have some nutrition, so they do not go to bed hungry. Ornamentals usually have a nice flush of growth at this time.

 

For trees and shrubs, you can get ahead of the insect battle by using Neem oil or Horticulture oil. Neem oil has some fungicide benefits also which is a bonus. If you have a tree or shrub with a history of scale (Crepe Myrtle scale is here), twig borer, aphids, white flies …, apply a drench of Dominion Tree and Shrub now to protect the new growth next spring.

The cool weather does bring about large patch fungus on turf. A yearly event that is best controlled preventatively. The recent high tides have triggered an outbreak of those mean and nasty, blood-sucking mosquitoes. Try Mosquito Pro, with it’s two growth regulators, you will like it (check the label, it might help you with many more issues than the name implies).

 

Want a better yard in 2026? Now is a great time to take a soil test (Possums) get on a Custom Program. Transplanting on you winter project list? Stay tuned.

 

Always read, understand and follow product label. The product label is a Federal Law.

 

Bill Lamson-Scribner can be reached during the week at Possum’s Landscape and Pest Control Supply (follow us on Facebook). Possum’s has three locations 481 Long Point Rd in Mt. Pleasant (971-9601), 3325 Business Circle in North Charleston (760-2600), or 606 Dupont Rd, in Charleston (766-1511). Bring your questions to a Possum’s location, or visit us at possumsupply.com. You can also call in your questions to “The Garden Clinic”, Saturdays from 10:00 AM to 11:00 AM, or listen to the replay of Saturday’s show, Sundays from 11:00 to noon on 1250 WTMA (The Big Talker). The Horticulture Hotline is available 24 / 7 at possumsupply.com.